THEME
We suggest for Autumn/Winter 2002/2003 an atmosphere which evokes
the mid XIXth century and the film "Portrait of a Lady",
directed by Jane Campion. This Henry James novel depicts the
inner struggles felt by the character Isabel Archer during a
trip to Europe in the XIXth century, in which she is trying
to find her destiny. In Florence, Isabel meets Gilbert Osmond
and what started out as an auspicious journey turns colder,
and fades into shades of blue.
LINE
Next season's line reflects these two distinct stages experienced
by the central character.
Fluid, romantic, feminine suggestions evoke a tender, collective,
idealised innocence in contrast to the rigid, geometric and
austere suggestions for outdoor wear.
COLOURS
The palate of colours used also reflects the two very distinct
divisions of Isabel's journey. Dark, sober tones for outerwear
are inspired by the film's images. These use four base shades:
coal grey, aubergine, blue and black.
Natural tones are used for underwear: white, vanilla and flesh
pink.
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FABRICS
We suggest natural fabrics - pure cotton and wool, either
as stand alones or blended with linen and silk. For outerwear,trimmings
for waterproof textures, leather and wools/cashmere for overcoats.
Stand outs in shirts and blouses are made of cotton/ceramic-polyester
blends, pure cotton and raw silk for the more sophisticated
choices.
DETAILS
Referencing the wardrobe of the XIXth century, there are decorative
details on basic structural items with worked bulk. There
is a structured line delineated by classic tailoring and leather
appliqué, cut anatomically. Distented fringes, fringed
leg-of-mutton sleeves, veinings, while a juxtaposition of
fringings and pleats accompany the asymmetric, bowed godets
to create sweeping, romantic items.
ACCESSORIES
Leather bracelets and chokers with bows; mules and shoes with
2.5 and 4cm heels with punched hole details, pleats and dovetailings
of different leather pieces, with matching handbags.
HAIR: Cristina Peixoto
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| Photo: Rui Vasco |
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Make-up Antónia Rosa with Estée Lauder products |
Make-up Antónia Rosa with Estée Lauder products |
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The duo were born in 1975 and
1976, in Paris and Lisbon respectively. They met while studying
design at the CITEX Institute in Oporto.
They created their own label in 1997 and began showing at MODALISBOA
in 1999. In addition, they have exhibited at many other fashion
shows, most recently in Paris for Portugal fashion.
They work together on collections for the CHARLES brand. The
pair are preparing for the opening of their first store on Avenida
da Liberdade in Lisbon.
Their work is currently available at a dozen retail outlets
throughout Portugal.
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